What makes a tactical jacket worth the investment

My first "tactical" jacket cost thirty-five dollars and lasted four months. The zipper separated, the seams at the shoulders started pulling apart, and the DWR coating washed off after the second cleaning. By the time it failed, I'd already spent more than a quality jacket would have cost because I bought two cheap replacements while the first one was falling apart.

That's the trap with cheap outerwear. The upfront savings disappear quickly when you're replacing gear every season instead of every few years. But not every expensive jacket is worth the money either. Here's how to tell the difference.

Weather resistance without sacrificing breathability

Every jacket manufacturer claims their product is waterproof and breathable. These two features are in constant tension. The more waterproof a jacket is, the less it can breathe. The more breathable it is, the more water eventually gets through.

Waterproof ratings are measured in millimeters. A 5,000mm rating means the fabric can withstand a column of water 5,000mm tall before it leaks through. For reference, light rain is around 5,000mm of pressure. Heavy rain approaches 10,000mm. If you're kneeling on wet ground with your body weight pressing down, you're generating even more pressure than rain.

Breathability is measured in grams. A 10,000g rating means 10,000 grams of water vapor can pass through a square meter of fabric in 24 hours. Higher numbers mean more sweat escapes. For active use, you want breathability ratings of at least 10,000g. Below that, you'll feel clammy inside the jacket even if no water is getting in from outside.

The catch is that breathability drops when the jacket is wet. DWR coatings keep the outer fabric from absorbing water, which maintains breathability. Once that coating fails and the fabric "wets out," water vapor can't escape as efficiently even if the waterproof membrane underneath is still working.

I test breathability by wearing a jacket during a hard hike. If I'm still damp inside after an hour of walking despite having the pit zips open, the breathability rating was probably overstated or the DWR is already compromised.

Soft shell vs. hard shell: use cases for each

Hard shell jackets have a waterproof membrane laminated to the outer fabric. They're the most waterproof option available. They're also the least breathable and often the loudest when you move. The fabric crinkles and rustles.

Soft shell jackets use stretchy, breathable fabric with some level of water resistance but not true waterproofing. They're quieter, more mobile, and more comfortable for active use. Most shed light rain for an hour or so before they start wetting through.

I own both and use them for different situations. Hard shell goes in the pack when rain is certain and I'll be stationary or moving slowly. Soft shell is my daily driver for cool weather when there's a chance of rain but I'll mostly be moving and generating heat.

The soft shell tactical jacket has become my most-worn piece of outerwear. It works in a wider range of conditions than any other jacket I own. The stretch fabric moves with me. The wind resistance cuts the chill without trapping too much heat. The pockets are accessible. And it doesn't make me sound like a garbage bag when I walk.

Hard shells are non-negotiable for serious rain, though. I learned this the hard way during an October training exercise in Washington. My soft shell handled the first few hours fine. By hour six of continuous drizzle, I was soaked through and cold. A hard shell would have kept me dry and functional.

Concealed carry compatibility in jacket design

Not every tactical jacket is designed with concealment in mind. Those that are have specific features that make drawing easier and printing less likely.

Straight hem jackets work better for belt-line carry than jackets with elastic or drawcord hems. The straight edge doesn't ride up as easily when you move, and it doesn't bunch when you sit.

Internal pockets positioned for firearm access are different from standard internal pockets. They're usually on the weak side for cross-draw access or positioned high on the chest. The pocket opening should be wide enough to get a full grip before you draw.

Fabric weight affects printing. Heavier fabrics drape better and show less outline of whatever's underneath. Lighter fabrics are more comfortable but tend to cling and reveal shapes.

I've tried carrying under jackets that weren't designed for it. The constant adjustment, the worry about printing, the awkward draws when I practiced at home. It wasn't worth the hassle. A jacket specifically designed for carry makes the whole process disappear.

Some jackets include velcro attachment points inside for holster mounting or include zip-off panels to access a belt holster quickly. These features are specific to the task and hard to replicate on a jacket that wasn't designed with them from the start.

Cuff, collar, and hood adjustability features

These details seem minor until you're actually in weather. A hood that doesn't cinch properly lets rain and wind straight to your face. Cuffs that don't seal allow cold air up your arms. Collars that won't stay up don't protect your neck.

Hoods should have at least two adjustment points: one at the face opening and one at the back of the head. The face adjustment controls peripheral vision and rain protection. The back adjustment keeps the hood from falling off in wind. Three-point adjustment systems add volume control for wearing over helmets or hats.

Storm flaps behind the main zipper keep wind and water from penetrating the zipper teeth. Some jackets have interior draft tubes as well, which add another layer of protection. These features matter more in sustained bad weather than in occasional light rain.

Cuff closures range from simple velcro straps to complex systems with multiple adjustments. The simpler the better, in my experience. Velcro straps that let you cinch over gloves or open up for ventilation cover most needs. Anything more complicated than that tends to fail or become annoying.

I once owned a jacket with no collar adjustments. The collar stood up fine initially, but after a few months the fabric relaxed and it flopped over constantly. Now I check that collars have some kind of stay or stiffener that will hold up over time.

How construction quality affects long-term performance

The stitching tells you more than the marketing. Look at the seams where the most stress occurs: shoulders, underarms, pocket corners, zipper endpoints. Double or triple stitching in these areas extends the life of the jacket significantly.

Seam taping matters for waterproof jackets. The needle holes from stitching create potential leak points. Taped seams cover these holes with waterproof tape applied from the inside. Check that tape covers all seams, not just the critical ones. Some budget jackets tape the shoulders but skip the underarms.

Zipper quality varies enormously. YKK zippers are the industry standard for a reason. They operate smoothly, resist corrosion, and last for years of daily use. Unbranded zippers are often the first thing to fail on cheap jackets.

Fabric delamination is a risk with waterproof membranes. The membrane is bonded to the outer fabric and sometimes to an inner liner too. In low-quality construction, this bond fails over time, causing bubbling or peeling. You might not notice it initially, but after a year or two of use, the jacket starts falling apart from the inside.

I hold jackets up to light and look for consistent fabric density. Thin spots or uneven lamination show up as bright patches. These areas will fail first. They're more common in cheap jackets but occasionally appear in expensive ones too.

A good tactical jacket should last five years of regular use or more. Mine have. The ones I've invested in properly are still functional and presentable long after the cheap alternatives would have ended up in the trash.

The upfront cost stings. I understand the appeal of spending less now and dealing with problems later. But outerwear fails at the worst possible times, and you don't always have the option to replace it when you need it most. Better to spend once on something built to last.